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Reply #1120 ida88's post
kene geget? cian..
eh, hammy kwn ida tu spisis ape? RC ker? |
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Hamster Central Articles - A quick and easyguide to help you tame your hamster!
by LilaHam
Friendliness
Its easy to stop a hamster from feeling timid around you. You just have to be gentle and calm around the hamster.
First of all when you get a new hamster you should ideally give him or her time to rest before you start handling them. The last thing you want your hamster to associate with you is stress. Give the hamster a day or two to settle into its new surroundings. There are lots of new sights, sounds and smells it needs to get accustom to.
Start by talking gentle to the hamster and offering it small treats so it gets use to your smell. Eventually you can move on to stroking it gently when your hammy comes out for food or to see you. The first few times it might run away or act uncertain, but after a while if you bring your hand down slowly and stroke it gently the hamster will be used to your hand. Respect your hamsters wishes and don't force anything on it further. Continue the first step as long as necessary, until your hamster seems comfortable around your hand.
When the hamster is used to your hand you may like to try coaxing it into your open palm. Never wake up the hamster to handle it. You should play with it when its already awake. Trying to wake a sleeping hamster may lead to a nasty bite. If your nervous about picking it up you could use a plastic container or small box placed inside the cage. Let the hamster climb into it on its own terms and take it out of the cage. Then allow it to walk out into your hand. You can also try using a hamster ball. Be sure to read about the proper use and hazards of hamster balls first.
Make sure you let your hamster get to know other members of your household so it will not be afraid by them. Always make sure you are sitting down so the hamster cant take a bad tumble encase it starts to try and escape. Remember its a game of touch and go. Don't force it.. let the trust develop at its own pace. Be sure to make calm slow movements when around the hamster and pay attention to his body language, respect its space.
Keep your hands clean
You should make sure you wash your hands well before handling a hamster. The scent of food on your hands, or the smell of other animals, including other hamsters can lead to your hammy biting or nibbling.
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Hamster Central Articles - Do hamsters need tobe bathed?
by SnuggleHam
[table] [tr] [td] There will always be people out there who want to bathe their hamster. Hamsters are small, cute, cuddly and generally people want to baby them. They do so by spoiling them with treats, giving them fun toys to play with, and yes even bathing them in water like we would normally do to a human baby. Bathing a hamster may seem nice, But the fact of the matter is that hamsters do not need bathing. They would not naturally do this in the wild. They may seem they don抰 mind the bath and maybe they don抰. But if given the oppertunity to get onto a pool of water on their own, I highly doubt that they would.
Do a search on this subject I think you will find most website抯 advice against it unless the hamster is extremely dirty. Even in the event a hamster has wet tail or diarrhea or is sickly, the hamster should be cleaned with a damp cloth or should only have their bottoms submerged in water to help clean off any urine or caked on feces.
The only hamster that may ever need occasional special treatment with grooming is that longhaired variety of Syrian hamsters like the rex or teddy bear hamster when their fur may becomes entangled with pieces of bedding. The best way to approach this is with a toothbrush or soft baby brush. Hamsters do a prefect job of grooming themselves. They do not often require any assistance. Bathing a hamster in water removes the natural oils from the coat and gives the hamster a good chance to catch a chill possibly resulting in pneumonia and in extremes death.
The only time you should bathe a hamster is if it gets itself covered in something sticky or dangerous. In this event you should place your hamster in a shallow amount of luke-warm water in a bowl in a sink. You do not need to purchase any fancy rodent shampoos, a cheaper and probably more safer alternative is no tears baby shampoos. Gently wash your hamster and rinse it off with luke-warm water and thoroughly dry it until it is completely dry. Do NOT use a blow dryer to try and dry it, use a towel.
The proper kind of bath your hamster would love and appreciate is a nice sand bath. You can buy chinchilla sand at your local pet store and place it in a shallow dish or empty glass jar on its side large enough for the hamster to safely enter and turn around in, or simply a cut out box. There are also special sand bathhouses you can guy for small rodents if you wish. They will love rolling and digging in it. The sand will help wear their nails down and keep the coast clean and helps to take some of the grease out of their fur. Make sure you stay away from any products labeled 揚owder |
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Hamster Central Articles - Are your hamstersnails too long?
by babyboos
[table] [tr] [td] As a responsible hamster owner, of any species, it is important we regularly check our little one抯 nails are not getting too long |
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Hamster Central Articles - Do you think your hamster is diabetic?
by babyboos
Diabetes is more common in Dwarf Hamster species (Campbells and Winter White Russian) than Syrian and Roborovski, though the later two can occassionaly develop this condition. You can help them avaoid it by feeding a diet low in refined sugar and high in complex carbohydrates.
A diabetic dwarf will have all or some of the following symptoms:
1. Increased thirst, drinking excessively
2. Peeing excessively, strong smelly urine with either a sweetish smell or a acetone (nail polish remover smell).
3. Sudden weight loss or weight gain
4. Tiredness (sleeping more than usual) or excessive exercise or a combination of both at the extremes
5. Irritability (only in some), unusual biting when the hamster did not bite before
6. Increased hunger
If you suspect your hamster has diabetes you can join the HoneyHams Diabetic Hamsters Yahoo Group where we can share what we know, what we fear and how we can help.
To test your little one:
1. Purchase Keto-Diastix (tests for ketones and blood glucose)
2. Dip the test strip into fresh urine
3. Wait for results
4. Compare results to chart on Keto-Diastix package
5. Read package insert for more information to prevent false readings
The following is a short guideline on how to treat diabetic hamsters, if you want more details please go to the HoneyHams website:
HIGH KETONES, HIGH GLUCOSE
Treat with a hypoglycemic such as fenugreek seeds/powder--up to 400 mg or 25 seeds is safe. Use 50/50 Pedialyte/Water solution in water bottle. High protein, high fibre, low fat diet.
HIGH KETONES, LOW OR NO GLUCOSE
Treat with 50/50 Pedialyte/Water solution and high protein, high fibre, low fat diet.
NO KETONES, HIGH GLUCOSE
Treat with only hypoglycemics, plain water (no Pedialyte), and absolutely NO SUGAR (dextrose, maltose, corn etc.). High protein, low fat, high fibre diet. Hypoglycemics include fenugreek (easiest to obtain), glipizide (drug, needs prescription), buckwheat (comes in pasta, whole or flour form, doesn't work as well as the other hypoglycemics), and spirulina (although this doesn't work as well as the other hypoglycemics and is very expensive).
Good protein sources for hams:
1. Tofu (firm or medium firm is best)
2. Roasted soybeans, unsalted
3. Chicken baby food (with broth, not seasoned)
4. Spirulina and/or seaweed called NORI (roasted laver, no added salt or salt removed)
5. Boiled chicken breast or turkey
6. Egg whites with tiny bit of cooked egg yolk, boiled, scrambled, fried in small amount of olive oil
7. Flaxseeds/Linseeds
8. Low fat cheeses (not processed)
9. Low fat, plain natural bio yogurt
10. Tuna in spring water, drained (not all hamsters like this)
Good veggies for diabetic hams:
Cucumbers, bok choy, romaine lettuce, brocolli, cauliflower, celery, kale, bitter melon, chinese brocolli, red peppers, green peppers, beans (except red kidney), legumes, regular mushrooms 1/4 teaspoon, every other day
Other foods:
Wheatgerm, Weetabix cereal, any no-added sugar cereal, nutritional yeast. wholegrains, multi-grain bread, brown rice, wholegrain pasta, buckwheat pasta
In moderation:
Sunflower seeds, pumpkin seeds, nuts
Avoid:
Raisins, corn, all sugars, even natural or fruit based (maltose, dextrose, fructose etc.), and therefore also fruit of any kind. Plus all the usual things we should not give our little ones such as onions, garlic, carrots, potatoes, white rice, white bread etc.
This list is by no means comprehensive. If you have a questionable food post it to the HoneyHams group and someone will answer it, or post it here and I will do my best to help.
Remember, just because your hamster has diabetes it doesn't mean it is a death sentence. Your hamster can have normal readings and be exactly like a normal hamster - some diabetics have lived to 3 years
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[ Last edited by nauze at 9-10-2007 03:17 PM ] |
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Hamster Central Articles - Hamster Ailments - A resource of hamster related illness's and diseases.
by SnuggleHam
[table][tr][td] Teeth
Biology
Like all myomorph rodents, hamsters have one pair of incisors and three pairs of molars in both upper and lower jaws. There are no canines, leaving a marked gap called the diastema, between the incisors and cheek teeth. The lips and cheeks bluge inwards through this gap separating 揼nawing |
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sambungan
Pouches
Biology
The cheek pouches are large pockets in the wall of the mouth, used to transport food. When full they are easily visible as large swellings on either side of your hamster抯 head.
Cheek Pouch Impaction
This occurs when the hamster is unable to empty one or both of their pouches and they are persistently full. This may occur if sticky food is given, if there are dental problems, or occasionally simply if the hamster stuffs in too much food! The pouches can be gently everted under light anaesthesia, emptied and cleaned, and any abrasions or abscesses that have formed because of the problem treated at the same time. It is important however to rule out any underlying cause such as dental malocclusions, or the impaction may reoccur.
Cheek Pouch Eversion
This is when one or both pouches becomes everted (ie inside out) and the hamster is unable to correct it themselves. This is more common in the dwarf species than in Syrians. The cheek pouch can gently be replaced using a small blunt object. If it is everted for too long it may become damaged or even necrotic, requiring surgery to remove dead tissue and replace the pouch.
Eyes
Ocular discharge
This may be a symptom of a concurrent respiratory infection, a foreign body in the eye, or conjunctivitis. Drafts or a build-up of ammonia in a dirty cage can also cause a discharge from the eyes.
An antibiotic or antibiotic + steroid eye ointment can be obtained from the vet. The eyes should be checked for foreign bodies, and the other causes above ruled out.
Glaucoma
This is an increase in the pressure inside the eye and is rare, but most frequently reported in Campbell抯 and Winter Whites. It presents as enlarged, bulging eyes. Lubricating eye drops can be used to prevent the eyes drying out, and surgical removal of the affected eye(s) can be considered in some cases. Hamsters with glaucoma can live a relatively unaffected life if given good support from their owner, but should not be bred from as it is thought to be an inherited condition.
Eye prolapse
Prolapse or rupture of the eye can be caused by injury from trauma or fighting, or glaucoma. The eye will usually heal by itself without surgical intervention. Antibiotics should be given for 5-7 days to prevent complications.
Micropthalmia
Some hamsters are born with small eyes or no eyes at all. This is the result of a recessive gene carried by some black-eyed white hamsters, dominant spots and all white-bellied hamsters. Breeding of these types should only be carried out by people who understand the genetic inheritance of this condition.
Blindness can usually be coped with by a hamster with good support from it抯 owner, but the condition is further complicated as it is also combined with lack of teeth, presenting further problems
Cataracts
This presents as an opaque (cloudy) eye in an older hamster. It may be associated with diabetes. The hamster may suffer complete loss of sight but this can be coped with. Again, this may be an inherited condition so affected hamsters should not be bred from, however as it usually occurs in elderly hamsters it may be too late, so offspring should be checked regularly.
Ears
Ear mites
Both dog and cat ear mites may affect hamsters, and there is a hamster ear mite as well. Symptoms would include crusting inside and around the ears and sometimes on the face and feet as well. Treatment is with ivermectin (oral or injection) from a vet.
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sambungan
Skin Problems
Biology
Hamsters have two scent glands, also known on hip spots, one on each sid. Theycan sometimes appear as a dark discolouration of the skin and are often morenoticeable in males. Dwarf hamsters also have a ventral scent gland.
Alopecia
Alopecia (hair loss) is the second most common problem in hamsters afterdiarrhoea. There are a number of possible causes including mites,hyperadrenocorticism (Cushing抯 disease), fungal infections or old age.
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sambungan
Gastrointestinal System
Biology
The stomach of a hamster is divided into two distinct regions, the forestomach(pars cardiaca) and glandular stomach (pars pylorica). They have a long coiledsmall intestine approx 40cm long and a large, sacculated caeccum which isfolded over on itself in a complex arrangement. Normal Syrian hamster faeces isalmost black, very dry and about 10mm long by 3mm diameter, beingproportionally smaller in dwarf species. Coprophagy (eating faeces) is normalin the hamster and allows them to ingest B vitamins produced by the microflora ofthe caecum.
Proliferative Ileitis |
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sambungan lagi
Urinary System
Biology
Normal hamster urine is thick and yellow witha pH 8, and should not be mistaken for pus.
Cystitis (bladder infection)
Blood in the urine or straining to pee may indicate a bladder infection, whichcan be diagnosed by testing a urine sample. Antibiotics may be given.
Urolithiasis (bladder stones)
There are normally small crystals present in hamster urine, which occasionallymay form bladder stones. Signs might include bloody urine, increase indrinking, increase in peeing or not peeing at all. Large stones may bepalpable, or the vet may use a urine sample, ultrasound or an x-ray to make thediagnosis. Surgery may have to be performed to remove the stone, although theyare likely to recur.
Chronic Renal Failure
Kidney failure is common in older hamsters, and may cause increased drinkingand peeing and bloody urine. Restricting protein in the diet may help slow theprogress of the disease.
Diabetes
Diabetes is fairly common in older hamsters, and is also an inherited conditionin some Campbell抯Russian and Chinese hamster strains. Signs include increased drinking andpeeing and changes in behaviour (either lethargy or increased activity), and adiagnosis can be made by testing a urine sample for glucose. See the stickythread 揑s your hamster diabetic? |
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macam belajar biologi pulak..  |
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Lots of people are wanting to keep multiple hamsters. Sohere is a guide to help you.
First off Syrians must not be kept together as they are very solitary and willbadly fight or even kill each other. This could lead to very expensive vetbills.
Dwarf hamster on the other hand may live together. There are Four Breeds ofDwarfs. There are Russian Campbell Dwarfs, Winter White Dwarfs, Chinese Dwarfs,and Roborovskii Dwarfs.
Some tips for keeping multiple hamsters are:
- Make sure you have a large setup for your new hamsters. If you don't have alarge enough setup then your dwarfs could fight for space. Having a bunch ofcages such as habitrails or crittertrails for example for multiple hamsters arenot a good idea as they often become territorial of on cage which can lead to afight.
- A large food dish. Most dwarfs love to be able to sit in their food dish. Butif you have a food dish that can't hold a bunch of dwarfs then you could beasking for a fight. Food dish's that would allow all of the hamsters to sit inat the same time are best.
- Sometimes one or more of the dwarfs will be greedy. So the other(s) might notget enough food and then get angry. So if you find your dwarfs are not gettingthe right amount of food the answer is not another food dish. Why? Because nowPiggy gets twice as much food. I would suggest seperate feeding times. Feed oneand then take the other out. Then switch turns. But usually having a large fooddish can help this.
- Wheels. Never get the wheels that are actually made for dwarfs. Some are tosmall in the first place and well all the dwarfs can't fit on it at once. Asyrian sized wheel or bigger is your best bet. Having at least one wheel perdwarf is also a good idea as they may want to run but not together.
- Water Bottles. Sometimes dwarfs will fight over getting a drink. So then youmay need to get another water bottle.
- Multiple beds. Dwarfs may not want to sleep together all the time. So it isimportant that you have more then one bed for them in their cage incase one ischased out of its bed.
- Gender. It is important that you have dwarfs of the same sex. Breeding is alotof hard work and takes a long time to learn. So make sure you either have allgirls or all boys.
If fighting occurs and there is blood you must seperate them immeaditly. Thismeans you must have extra cages ready incase of a fight. |
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Cannibalism
Cannibalism is a common and distressing problem forbreeders of Syrian hamsters. Although not unique to Syrians, it seems to bemore common in Syrians than in Dwarfs or other rodents. Some mothers mayabandon their pups rather than kill them. Unable to maintain their bodytemperature or to suckle, abandoned pups can die in a matter of hours.
A quick search of the Internet was unable to provide me with an estimate ofthe actual frequency of cannibalism/abandonment but anecdotal evidence suggeststhat it is very common. I would estimate that as many as one in five femaleswill cannibalise newborn litters at some point in their breeding months.
Several associated factors have been suggested, again, none have any firmevidence to back them up but I think most experienced breeders would agree withthem:
- Primiparous (first-time) mothers
- Disturbance of the litter in the first week after delivery
- Poor food supply - the actual type of food (fat, protein, carbohydrate) is controversial
- Mothers nesting on wire bars rather than a solid floor
- Genetic factors
My apologies for the "wooliness" of the last item - I have animpression from my breeding programme that cannabilism tends to run inparticular breeding lines, assuming you ever get any pups from that line!
The advice to new breeders is straightforward and follows from the listabove. Give your nursing mothers plenty of food. I found that scrambled eggmixed with an infant milk formula seemed to go down well (well, better onaverage than the flesh of the pups!). Perhaps most important, leave the nestalone!. I've seen experienced breeders lifting pups from a nest in thefirst week, but only from mothers that they were very confident about.
As a warning, I relate the following true story from my distant hamster-breedingpast:
A mother and her day-old litter were taken to a vet as I was concernedthat there were retained pups in the uterus (womb). The vet, through no faultof his own, knew very little about hamsters and picked one of the pups up,examining it in great detail and with great curiosity, as if it were a newexperience for him. By the time I reached home, the cage was littered withnewborn hamster body parts. That's not to say that just the stress of havingthe cage put in the car and jostled around wouldn't be enough to set a cannibalmother off, but it made me very wary of disturbing new litters.
Finally, as with all such hamster problems, following the accepted wisdommay not fix your hamster cannibals. You can only hope for the best and in theend, this is nature's way. Vengeance should not be wreaked upon the mother, sheis only obeying her instincts. It is one of the quirks of our lovable littlefurries.
[ Last edited by nauze at 10-10-2007 02:16 AM ] |
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alahmak... banyaknye nak baca.... tak pe... aku pelan2 kayuh.... |
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Reply #1136 nizamje's post
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baca jgn x baca..pelan2 kayuh k.. |
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Reply #1136 nizamje's post
sebenarnya ada banyak lagi artikel pasal hamster ni..nanti saya paste lagi..jenuh la nk baca.. |
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Hamster Central Articles -
Hamster As Pets. What hammy is best for me?
by SnuggleHam
[table] [tr] [td] Before the purchase of a new hamster its best that you research as much as you can so you will know what you抣l need for your new hamsters home and health. A good way to do this is to research on line for websites or for forums or message boards. Another way is to find a good book on hamsters. I suggest that you try and stay away from books that read very simply and are geared more towards children, as they don抰 always tend to have as extensive information. However its not a bad idea to give a child one of these books who is receiving the animal, but as a parent its also your responsibility to know about hamsters at lest to an extent that you can properly care for it and help the child.
One good book that I have found and recommend is called 揟he Hamster handbook |
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Hamster Central Articles - Hamster Roll Around/ Zoomer Balls - Good or Bad?
by babyboos
[table] [tr] [td] One of the most common hamster "toys" is a hamster roll-around or zoomer ball. A roll-around ball can be a great occasional toy for your hamster to enjoy - as long as you use it correctly. There are a few things to consider before buying one for your hamster.
1. Sight: If the ball is too dark in colour, your hamster cannot see where he is going, and will constantly run into walls, which can be very frightening to the hamster. (Many hamsters are afraid of the ball, because it's like being put into a dark box - and running into something everytime he moves!) Although coloured balls seem nicer to look at, remember your hamster already has poor eye-sight. While your hamster cannot see in the detail we human see in, they still can see CONTRAST. Putting your hamster in a clear ball is safest, and the least frightening - after running into several things in the clear ball, your hamster should figure out the contrasts of the objects/walls in your home. This cannot be achieved in a coloured ball. Note: if your hamster refuses to run in his ball (digs/scratches to get out, sits and grooms until taken out, it is possible that he's afraid of the ball.)
2. Dehydration/body temperature: If you choose to use a ball, make sure to put your hamster back in his cage for a "break" every 20 minutes or so. This will enable him to get a drink, potty, and get some cool air. (It gets hot in there!)
3. Remembering to take him out: I used to think I would never forget about my hamster in his ball - until it actually happened! Be sure to make some sort of note, set an alarm, or something of the sort while your hamster's in his ball. All it takes is for the phone to ring, or some "crisis" to cause you to forget your hamster is in it's ball.
4. Getting trapped: If you no longer hear your hamster rolling, check on him. He may be trapped behind, or under furniture/other household items. As you become more familiar with your hamster's "rolling" habits, you can block these things off.
5. Escaping: No matter how sturdy the lid seems to be, it can, and eventually will come off, allowing your hamster to escape. The cheeky furball will soon learn if he hits that particular spot a number of times off will pop the lid and wahoo... FREEDOM! A simple solution is to place a piece of tape over the lid and part of the ball after your hamster gets in it. Some balls are also liable to breaking completely in half if the hamster runs into anything, so taping around the middle of the ball is a good idea too.
6. Feet: If the air-slats are too wide your hamster锟絪 feet will get caught. You should check your hamster's feet after using the ball, to make sure his feet are not being injured. If you hear squeaking coming from inside the ball, chances are his feet are getting caught. If you have a dwarf, the mini-sized balls are best. For young and smaller Syrians, the "football-sized" are best. For super large Syrians, a "basketball-sized锟 |
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Post time 8-10-2007 03:41 AM
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